Get Ready to Play! Preparing for Dog Sports – or Maybe Just Life
Jack posing like a champion. photo: Sandy Rogers
Do you think about pursuing dog sports but aren’t sure where to start? Do you wish for a better-trained dog but don’t dig traditional obedience training? If you said yes to either or both of these questions, read on.
In fact, there are three simple, fun-to-teach skills that will strengthen important communications with your dog whether you want to pursue dog sports or not. These are the skills my students and I use to develop a sophisticated system of communication that allows us to enjoy the incredible sport of dog agility. While they’re a shortcut to success in dog sports, they’re also handy for everyday life situations as well. And the good news is that you don’t need any fancy equipment, there’s no expense, and you can train in the house, yard, or park.
Welcome to the B.A.M. Dog Skills!
The acronym B.A.M. makes the skills easy to visualize and remember (it’s short for Boomerang, Anchor, and Move with Engagement). Let’s break it down by the letters.
B is for Boomerang: My dog should learn to go away from me and come back to me with speed and joy.
Why teach that? Because Boomerang strengthens the crucial concepts of “leave me and come back to me.” You’re enhancing your “send” cue and your “recall” cue at the same time in a very fun way. Your dog is learning that going where you tell him and coming to you quickly is fun and highly rewarding.
How To Teach It:
Use rewards to train your dog to go around any tall cylinder-shaped object and come back to you. I use a garbage can or bar stool at home and trees when I’m outside.
Begin by rewarding every repetition for going around the object. Stay close to the object at first.
Once your dog is happily choosing to go around the object without you telling him to do it, begin adding distance. After you get some distance, start turning and running away, let your dog chase you, and place the reward on your leg.
Ignore mistakes; just try again and keep smiling.
Reward correct responses with exuberant praise and highly desired rewards (have a party!).
Eventually practice going both directions around the object with your dog leaving you from both sides of your body.
A is for Anchor: My dog will learn to stay put until further instruction.
Why teach that? Anchor teaches and strengthens the important concept of staying in a specific position and always waiting until you are officially released. This enhances all “stay” type training in a fun way. Anchor skills are great for helping your dog stay on your bed, in a crate, at doorways or curbs, as well as on certain agility obstacles.
How to Teach It:
I use a rubber livestock feeding bowl (other materials slide too much) turned upside down to teach this skill. The dog learns to perch Rin-Tin-Tin style on the bowl, meaning both front paws are on the bowl and both back paws are off. The dog is standing, not sitting.
Build value in your object and the position by using a high rate of reinforcement for being on the bowl. Stay close at first when training this skill. Mistakes are okay!
Build value in the release cue (“Break,” “Off,” or “Free, for example) by also rewarding it when your dog arrives at your leg.
Once your dog is happily getting onto the bowl, start adding distance, duration, and distractions (see my youtube video called the 3-D’).
If your dog comes off the bowl before you release, pause, smile, and look at the bowl to see if your dog will figure out to get back on it without you prompting.
M is for Moving with Engagement: a fun, happy, inspiring version of “heel.”
Why teach that? Calling your dog to your side and having them understand to stay there is one of the handiest skills of all, both on and off the agility course. Strong M.E. skills open up the world of dog sports and help keep our dogs safe in real-life situations. Your dog will learn to stay close if you are standing still, walking or running, and even changing directions.
How to Teach It:
This skill is taught in small increments with a high rate of reinforcement in the beginning. You’re teaching your dog to stay with his or her shoulder level with the side seam of your pants in the classic “heel” position. Basically, you’re saying to your dog “stick to my leg, whether I am moving or not, and I will look and sound delighted with you.”
Placement is key in this skill. The reward is given only when the dog's head is at your side, not in front of your leg or behind you.
Don’t make your dog stay in position for the whole walk. Alternate between heeling and loose leash sniffing/exploring.
Train on or off-leash. If you are using a leash, it should be loose and free of any tension.
It’s okay to pat your leg and happily engage your dog with lots of verbal encouragement.
Remember to add a change of pace - walking slowly, jogging, and running.
Practice both tight and wide turns to the left and right.
Practice with your dog on both the right and left sides of your body.
Advanced B.A.M.
Ready for more? Use multiple anchors (rubber bowls) and trees or garbage cans and mix and match the skills. Make a course! You’ll be doing real handling and your dog will be doing multiple skills in succession, much as we do in agility competitions.
Remember, whether your goal is a gateway to dog sports or just strengthening everyday skills, B.A.M. training is designed to create joy for your dog and you. Try letting your dog think about what to do next to earn the reward. Let your dog be an active participant in the learning. See if you can inspire your dog to want to do Boomerang and Anchor without much prompting or luring from you.
Practicing these skills will help to ensure many joyful training sessions ahead for you and your pup.