Nope, Not Going: What To Do When Your Dog Balks on Walks
Sometimes even happy urban dogs like Mavis put on the brakes and won’t budge; she and her person are working with the great tips in this article. photo: M Rocket
You’re out on your regular dog walk, and your dog suddenly stops. They sit down or pancake onto the pavement and refuse to budge. You coax them forward, tug on the leash, even offer a treat, but nothing works. Why are they doing this, and what can you do about it?
Here are some of the most common reasons dogs refuse to move on walks - and how you can help them move forward safely and with confidence.
Stubbornness Isn’t the Problem
It’s easy to assume your dog is just being difficult when they plant their paws and won’t budge. On the surface, it appears they’re being stubborn, testing your patience, or trying to call the shots.
But stopping is rarely about defiance. More often, it’s your dog’s way of saying, “I’m scared, confused, or uncomfortable, and I don’t know how to proceed.”
Labeling them as stubborn won’t help you learn what’s really going on. Listening instead opens the door to understanding and to helping them feel ready to move forward.
Fear or Anxiety: Is It Safe to Proceed?
Sometimes a sudden stop is your dog’s way of asking: Am I safe?
For dogs, our world can be a noisy, unpredictable place. A loud truck rumbling by, clattering skateboard wheels, or a fluttering tarp may send a nervous pup into a freeze.
This is often common with newly adopted dogs, especially rescues from quiet rural shelters who’ve been suddenly dropped into bustling city neighborhoods. On their first walks, they often refuse to leave the house or they stop after a few tentative steps. From their perspective, the world outside the front door is just too much to process.
Imagine being dropped into Times Square after living on a secluded farm. You’d probably pause to take it all in before moving forward, too.
Physical Discomfort
Pain is another reason dogs may suddenly stop on a walk and refuse to budge. Joint stiffness, sore paws, heat exhaustion, or an ill-fitting harness can all make walking unpleasant.
Many people assume it would be obvious if their dog is in pain. But dogs are masters at hiding discomfort and often won’t whine or cry unless the pain is severe. In the wild, showing weakness could make an animal a target so dogs have evolved to mask pain as a survival strategy. Just because they aren’t showing obvious signs doesn’t mean they aren’t hurting.
Adrenaline can also temporarily dull pain during exciting or stressful moments (like spotting a squirrel). When the effect wears off, your dog may suddenly refuse to move or become reluctant to continue.
If balking on walks is a new or worsening behavior, a visit to the vet should be your first step. Ask your veterinarian to check for pain or medical conditions before assuming their balkiness is a behavioral issue.
Emotional Overload and Lack of Agency
Some dogs stop because they’re overwhelmed. Others stop because they feel they have no say in where they’re going.
A short leash, being forced to walk too quickly without time to sniff, or constant leash tension can leave a dog feeling trapped.
Try giving your dog more freedom with a longer leash and letting them choose the route. You might be surprised to see them avoid certain streets or head straight for places that feel safer.
Single-Event Learning and Trigger Stacking
If your dog experienced a sudden fright when a car backfired, they might now associate that street corner with danger. This is called single-event learning (a strong memory formed after one intense experience). You might not have noticed the event, but your dog did, and their nervous system logged that location as “Dangerous, avoid at all costs.”
Other times, a freeze may be the result of what’s called trigger stacking. It’s not just the memory of one big scare; it’s a stack of little scares adding up. Your dog might hold it together through the barking of a neighbor's dog, the loud noise of a motorcycle, or passing a construction site. But then a harmless jogger runs past, and they freeze. That last-straw reaction isn’t about the jogger; it’s the cumulative stress of earlier triggers.
Be a Detective: What’s Behind the Freeze?
Before you can help your dog, you’ll need to understand what’s stressing them out. That means noticing when and where they balk.
Does it only happen in your neighborhood or on specific streets?
Is your dog more confident walking next to you? Or behind you?
What happens if you drop the leash or give it more slack? Will they move on their own?
Does it happen only when walking with certain people?
Does it happen at certain times of day? Some dogs dislike night walks due to poor vision.
Are they more willing to move with a longer leash and freedom to choose the route?
A mental log or quick notes after walks can help you connect the dots in your pup’s behavior. Once you spot the patterns and identify the triggers behind your dog’s stopping, you can begin helping your dog to feel safe enough to enjoy walks again.
Give Them Some Slack
Leash length matters more to dogs than most people realize. A short, tight leash limits your dog’s ability to explore or adjust their distance from triggers, creating more tension both physically and emotionally.
I prefer a six-foot leash as a baseline length for neighborhood walks. But for parks or trails, try a 10- to 15-foot long line. These lengths give your dog room to move naturally and build confidence through small choices along the way.
I don’t recommend retractable leashes for many reasons. The thin cord can burn or cut skin, the locking mechanism can jolt a nervous dog, and the constant tension actually makes dogs feel more restrained than free.
The Importance of Sniffing
For most dog guardians, a walk means potty time and exercise. But for dogs, the real magic is in the smells.
With 300 million olfactory receptors (compared to our mere five million), a dog’s nose is their primary way of experiencing the world. Expecting them to enjoy a walk without sniffing is like asking you to speed-run through an art museum while wearing blinders.
Sniffing isn’t just fun, it’s also calming. Studies show it lowers a dog’s heart rate, and the longer the leash, the more beneficial sniffing can happen. Trainer Sarah Stremming calls these “decompression walks:” slow, meandering outings where the dog sets the pace and soothes their nervous system through scent.
The bottom line: let your dog sniff. It may slow you down a bit, but it’s their walk, too.
Helping Your Dog Move Forward - Literally
Let’s say you’ve already observed your dog’s patterns. Maybe you’ve seen them walk happily in one direction but resist in another. What else can you do to help your dog move forward?
Take a deep breath and wait. Keep the leash loose and allow your dog to decide when they’re ready and which direction they want to walk.
Try decompression walks in a quiet, natural area where your dog leads.
Work with a behavior consultant to help you identify your dog’s triggers and teach your dog to feel safer and more confident in those situations through gradual, step-by-step sessions.
Play simple games like ‘Find it’ (scatter treats for your dog to sniff out), tug, or ball to get them moving without pressure.
Mix up your routes. Walking the same route every day can turn tricky spots into predictable standoffs. Try a new block, head in the opposite direction, or turn your usual route upside down. Sometimes, novelty alone can help a hesitant dog move forward.
Talk to your vet about pain or anxiety meds if needed.
What Not to Do
Don’t scold or nag.
Don’t drag or force your dog forward.
Don’t use prong, choke, or shock collars. These tools work by causing discomfort or fear, which will make nervous dogs even more resistant to walking.
Don’t rely on treats as a lure or bribe unless it’s an emergency.
Note: If your small dog is in a dangerous situation, such as in the middle of a crosswalk, go ahead and pick them up and move them to safety. But avoid carrying them every time they refuse to walk. Doing so can reinforce their uncertainty and create a pattern where they expect to be carried instead of building confidence and making choices on their own.
Why Luring With Food Isn’t the Best Solution
Using food lures for a frightened dog is like being bribed to walk through a haunted house for a candy bar. You might do it, but you wouldn’t enjoy the candy, and you probably wouldn’t trust the person handing it to you the next time.
Offering a treat to get a stuck dog moving might seem harmless and in emergencies - like getting out of a busy crosswalk - it’s fine. But relying on food lures as your go-to strategy can backfire.
When a dog freezes from fear, their brain is in survival mode. Often, they won’t even take food because they’re too overwhelmed to eat. And if they do take it, they’re likely still scared and just pushing through. This doesn’t resolve their fear; it reinforces the idea that moving forward means facing something frightening.
Even worse, luring can damage your dog’s trust in both you and food. If treats always lead to scary situations, your dog may start associating them with stress and anxiety. Over time, they could become suspicious of your hand or even refuse food altogether.
Some dogs also figure out how to game the system. They stop walking, get a treat, and repeat. This isn’t stubbornness; it’s what trainers call a behavior chain: your dog learns that pausing leads to a reward. While this is less common when fear is driving the behavior, it can happen with confident dogs who’ve picked up on the pattern.
Using Food the Right Way: Building Positive Associations Instead of Bribing
While luring a scared dog forward can backfire, food is still one of the most powerful tools you have when used as part of a thoughtful training plan. Instead of dangling a treat to get them to move past something scary, you can - and should - use food to change how your dog feels about that scary thing altogether.
Here’s the key difference: rather than asking your dog to approach the scary place or thing, work at a distance where they already feel safe. Each time they notice the trigger (a specific street or direction, a loud truck, or a barking dog), they receive a tasty treat. The treat always comes after they spot the trigger, not before. This teaches your dog that noticing something scary reliably predicts something good. This is known as desensitization and counterconditioning (read more about it here if you’re curious).
A qualified behavior consultant or force-free trainer can help you set up these counterconditioning sessions and make sure you’re working at your dog’s pace.
Play-Based Solutions: Make the Walk the Fun
Food isn’t the only way to help your dog feel better about the world. Play can be just as powerful. Play isn’t just entertainment; it’s one of the best ways to help dogs relax, build confidence, and see walking on leash as something positive.
Some dogs stop because they’re afraid. Others dig in their heels because heading toward home or leaving the dog park means the walk is over and they’re not ready for the fun to end. Either way, play can be your secret weapon.
And here’s something to remember: no one (dog or human) can play when they’re highly stressed. If you’re wound up and anxious, you’re not in the mood to play. It works the same way for dogs. A dog who’s willing to play is showing you they feel safe, more so than just taking a treat or moving forward.
Step-by-Step: Turning Walks Into Play
Start where your dog feels safe. Indoors or in the yard, engage in their favorite game: tug, chase, flirt pole, or squeaky toy. Keep it light and fun.
Add the leash without pressure. Clip on the leash and let it drag while you keep playing. This way, your dog learns the leash means fun and not pressure.
Take micro-steps forward. Encourage your dog to move a few steps, then pause and play again. These small moments of fun teach your dog that forward motion leads to good things.
Open the front door. Play with the door open (with your dog leashed to prevent bolting) so your dog gets used to the threshold without pressure to cross it. Let them sniff, explore, and play right at the doorway.
Expand to the porch or stoop. When your dog is comfortable, bring the play session onto the porch. Again, keep it short and fun.
Try a few steps on the sidewalk. Once the porch feels easy, move play just outside the house. Toss treats or toys a few feet ahead, or invite your dog to chase you a couple of steps.
Work up to halfway down the block. When your dog is comfortable playing just outside the house, start taking short forays down the block. Toss treats or a toy a few feet ahead, play tug for a few steps, or invite your dog to chase you a little farther. Each session, aim for slightly more distance, but only if your dog stays relaxed and engaged.
Keep sessions short and end them while your dog is still having fun. Stopping while they’re excited leaves them eager for next time. And if your dog says they’re done and wants to head home? Honor it. Respecting this choice builds trust and makes them more willing to try again next time.
Fear or Just a Strong Opinion?
Not every dog who stops on walks is scared. Some just really don’t want the fun to end. If your dog freezes only when you turn toward home or leave the dog park, it’s likely frustration, not fear, that’s driving their balkiness.
What helps if that’s the case:
Practice U-turns and direction changes outside of walk-ending situations (read here on how to teach “Let’s go”).
Make going home rewarding: toss treats, stop to play tug, or sprint a few steps together.
Vary your route so endings aren’t predictable.
Give your dog a moment to get collected. Waiting quietly can give them the space they need to reset. If they’re still stuck, try tossing a treat or playing a quick round of “Find it“ to get things moving again.
Stay calm and consistent. Don’t drag them, but don’t cave either. This helps them learn that walks still end, but good things happen on the way.
Feed your dog after the walk so they have something at home to look forward to.
Remember, your dog isn’t being a brat on purpose. You’ve just got a dog with strong opinions who’s learned how to communicate them. Clear expectations and calm consistency on your part will help them understand that even if the walk is almost over, following your lead still brings good things.
The Bottom Line
A dog who stops on a walk isn’t being intentionally difficult. They’re sending a message. If you take the time to listen, you and your dog can find your way back to walks that feel good for both of you.
That’s when "Nope, not going" can turn into “Okay, let’s go!”